Derby lace up

What is a derby lace up?

The derby lace up, often simply called "derby shoes," is a classic shoe style characterized by its open lacing system. This means the eyelet tabs (the pieces of leather with the holes for the laces) are sewn on top of the vamp (the front part of the shoe). This construction allows for a wider opening, making the derby shoe more accommodating to different foot shapes and offering a more relaxed fit compared to its close-laced cousin, the Oxford shoe.

History and origins

The derby shoe's history is a fascinating journey. Legend has it that the design evolved from a need for a more comfortable boot for military use. It is said that the Earl of Derby, seeking a more comfortable boot for his soldiers, commissioned a design that would allow for easier entry and exit. While this is a popular narrative, historical evidence suggests the derby originated earlier and wasn't solely for military purposes. By the mid-19th century, it had become a popular shoe style, particularly for sporting activities. Over time, the derby transitioned from a practical work boot to a versatile dress shoe, gaining popularity across Europe and the United States.

Construction and materials

The construction of a derby lace up is key to its durability and aesthetic appeal. High-quality derbies are often made using the Goodyear welt construction method, which involves stitching the upper, insole, and welt together. This method creates a strong, waterproof seal and allows for easy resoling. Common materials used include:

• Leather: Full-grain leather is the most prized, known for its durability and aging properties. Calfskin, shell cordovan, and even exotic leathers like alligator or ostrich are used for premium derbies.
• Suede: Suede derbies offer a more casual and textured look. Proper care and waterproofing are essential to maintain their appearance.
• Rubber Soles: Rubber soles provide excellent grip and are often used in modern derby designs. Different types of rubber offer varying levels of durability and cushioning.
• Leather Soles: Leather soles provide a classic look and are often considered more breathable. They require more care and are less water-resistant than rubber soles.

Styling your derby lace up

Derby shoes are incredibly versatile and can be styled in numerous ways. Their open lacing system makes them slightly more casual than Oxfords, allowing for a wider range of outfit choices.

• Business Casual: Pair black or brown leather derbies with chinos or dress pants and a button-down shirt or a blazer.
• Smart Casual: Combine suede derbies with dark wash jeans and a sweater or a polo shirt.
• Formal: While not as formal as Oxfords, polished black leather derbies can work in more formal settings, particularly those with a relaxed dress code.
• Color Considerations: Brown derbies are extremely versatile. Black derbies are more formal and work best with suits or dressier outfits. Consider suede derbies for adding texture and a touch of casual elegance.

Care and maintenance

Proper care extends the life of your derby lace ups and keeps them looking their best. Here are some essential tips:

• Cleaning: Regularly clean your shoes with a damp cloth to remove dirt and debris.
• Conditioning: Use leather conditioner to moisturize and protect the leather, preventing cracks.
• Polishing: Polish your shoes regularly to maintain their shine and appearance. Use a matching shoe polish.
• Shoe Trees: Insert shoe trees when you're not wearing your derbies to help maintain their shape and absorb moisture. Cedar shoe trees are particularly effective.
• Storage: Store your shoes in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight.